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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.